Russia, December 28, 1998

KLM Rocks Across Europe!

I'll never fly Lufthansa again, as long as I shall live!

Smooth as one too!(Full text sent to KLM Customer Service on December 31, 1998)

KLM: Smooth as a swan

My Dear KLM,

Oh my dear KLM, how will you ever forgive me? I have been so bad, so distrusting, so unfaithful! Last month, in a fit of foolery that I am still ashamed of, I chose another airline over you just because I had never flown with her before.

Lufthansa has a reputation, similar to yours, of being an efficient and enjoyable airline. That may be true, but it is definitely a far cry from your level of service and comfort. From the moment I sat in the hard, flat seats on my flight from Moscow to Frankfurt, I knew I had made the wrong choice. Once we were airborne, and they did not serve ice cream after the in-flight meal, my spirits sank even further. How can anyone even compare you, with your generous meals and tasty ice cream deserts, to another carrier? I was so foolish!

On arrival in Frankfurt, I became even more despondent. Not only did I have to walk across the tarmac to a shuttle bus to the terminal (not even Russia does this anymore!), the terminal was overcrowded, noisy, and confusing, with poor signage and too much construction going on. I yearned for the orderly and smooth Schiphol experience, with its big windows, courteous staff, and logical layout.

My flight from Frankfurt to Miami was uneventful and comfortable, like a flight should be, and the landing in Miami was one of the softest I've had, but it did not make up for the frustration of the return flight. First of all, my flight from Orlando to Frankfurt was completely changed, from a dream to a nightmare. I was booked on a direct Orlando-Frankfurt Lufthansa flight leaving Orlando in the evening and arriving in Frankfurt the following mid-day, but then I was involuntarily re- routed to a Orlando-Washington DC-Frankfurt flight on United Airlines!

Needless to say, United doesn't even come close to Lufthansa, much less your comfort and class. Our DC-Frankfurt pilot, in unmatched brilliance, decided to save us an hour (and his company fuel costs) by flying in the jet stream. Thanks for the hour! Too bad we were tossed around so much in the jet stream, that I couldn't sleep and I had plane crash nightmares when I tried. Next time, I'm gonna swim before I relive that tension.

So KLM, will you forgive me? Will you accept me now that I have learned my lesson? I promise, never, ever to spend a dime with another airline, if you service the places I am between, so help me Ra!

December 31, 1998, The Moscow Times

Russians Show Whiners The Way to Take Delays

By Russell Working

When trains shut down, when planes don't fly, when Russians are stranded anywhere, they are always ready with a bottle of vodka or sweet Moldavian wine.

On a train, they squeeze into a coupe and dig out whatever food they have - sausage, bread, cucumbers, candy -as happened last summer when my train full of shuttle traders was stalled for four hours on the Chinese border. On a plane, they fold down the middle scat and spread out a newspaper, on which they lay their dried fish or salo, a substance made from pork fat that is handy for absorbing headline ink and images of Primakov.

If a foreigner is in their midst, he will be grilled about his homeland, The glass will remain miraculously full, however often he polishes it off and makes clear that this is really his last drink. Eventually, some will doze. Some may even sing.

The attitude is: Why get excited? The plane will either fly or not fly. I can't change that, but I can celebrate with my fellow man in the meantime. I thought of this on Sunday while returning from a visit to my parents in Santa Barbara, California. I had spent the holiday reflecting on the strengths of American French roast coffee, sales clerks who don't roll their eyes at you, a vigorous system of cheeks and balances that keeps citizens informed about presidential DNA on intern's dresses.

But as I waited for takeoff on a United Airlines jet, I couldn't help thinking of another side of the American experience. We're whiners.

We were heading to San Francisco, and only one runway was open in that foggy city. The pilot announced an hour's delay. Then a second. And a third. I figured everyone felt the way I did. You can't change the weather, and if you travel, you live with the possibility of delays.

But I soon became aware of an undercurrent of fury on the plane. 'Unbelievable!' snarled a man with frizzy hair. A woman told a stewardess, 'This is unacceptable, Can't you see my children are exhausted?' The pilot tried in vain to calm us: 'Folks, we're sorry about the delay, but really, it's not the flight attendants' fault.'

In the end, the flight was canceled, and the passengers stomped off. As United scrambled to reroute us the next day, the frizzy man shouted, 'I don't care whose fault it is. You'll never get my business again.'

It was 11 p.m. Passengers lugged their bags to the curb. They crowded into cabs and headed back to the city where the electricity always works, where the faucets always gush, where everyone is paid on time. Angry. Muttering into cell phones. Struggling with the question that has vexed mankind since Job: Can God really he good in a world where trips to San Francisco are delayed?

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Russia, December 25, 1998

Santa Claus in Moscow

Yes, he even flies over Russia, only on Jan 7. This is what the local alternative paper, The eXile, found when they called around here for advice on Santa's visit: V 0 X P 0 P U I WILL SANTA CLAUS SURVIVE? Santa Clans is coming town… or is he?...

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Russia, December 23, 1998

Television Is a Time Suck

The idiot box crossed the pond and is attacking the Russian soul! The true Evil Empire is here is Russia. Not the communists, not the Chechens, but the television! Until 1991, TV was a rarity here with three stations in back & white. Luckily for the Russian culture, it was...

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Russia, December 21, 1998

The Reality of Irrelevance

The Reality of Irrelevance is hard for the Kremlin to accept What we were aiming for Snow sure makes it pretty! Thrice Victorious All the tourists! Chicago Tribune 21 December 1998 Russian Anger Grounded in Faded Influence but Don't Write us off Yet, Ex-Foes Caution By Michael McGuire, Tribune Staff...

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Russia, December 20, 1998

Salute Mayor Luzhkov

The man who will be Tzar in 2000 Bloomberg Profile, Dec. 20 1998 Moscow Mayor Luzhkov Aims for Presidency Moscow - When the Russian ruble plunged 60 percent against the dollar in August and September, Moscow Mayor Yuri Luzhkov imposed citywide price limits on staple foods, defying federal policy. When...

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Russia, December 19, 1998

Impeachment Happens

Boris did more than Bill, but Monica wasn't in the picture. New York Times 19 December 1998 Impeachment Also Is Proceeding, in a Convoluted Way, in Russia By Michael Wines MOSCOW -- If Russians are perplexed by the prospective impeachment of President Clinton over his testimony about extramarital sex --...

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I Am Not The Only One...

Moscow really puts a zap to your head! Lenin's Tomb Russian History Museum St Basil A Side Street Yes, Russia The North Tower A Side Alley St Basil The South Tower A Little Detail Financial Times December 19 1998 Moscow: Urban, but not yet urbane By Paul Gould A bracing...

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Russia, December 14, 1998

I'm Back! Did Ya Miss Me?

Re-entry into the USA after a few years outside is one hell of an experience. After an absence of one and a half years, what can I say? I love America! I flew into Miami, and in half an hour I was in heaven waltzing down Collins Avenue on Miami...

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Russia, December 13, 1998

Chechnya Burning

The New Russian Vacation Spot: Chechnya The Independent (UK) December 13, 1998 Welcome to Hell: How did Chechnya - a country once applauded by the West for its spirit of independence - descend to such levels of chaos and barbarism? By Phil Reeves SIX WEEKS ago, looking as inconspicuous as...

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Russia, December 07, 1998

Weddings in Winter

Russian weddings are quick! Don't be late. 7 December, 1998 NBC NEWS Moscow: love among the ruble By Carlota Zimmerman MOSCOW - As Moscow leaders ponder the socio-economic virtual reality of the country's burning ruble, Russians continue doing what comes naturally - falling in love and planning one of the...

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Russia, December 01, 1998

The Jews Are Here!

They still eat sala when they move to Israel! Moscow Times December 1, 1998 Toothless Old Hatreds By Nina L. Khrushcheva First it was the Jews. Then the Romanovs, the nobility and the kulaks. After 1991, it was Lenin and the communists. Now, it seems, it's the Jews again. Like...

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Russia, November 30, 1998

Gailyn Goes to Town

What happens when you let Americans with cash wander around a Russian mall Shop till you drop! Check out the glass ceiling! Fountains for sale too! And don't forget the flowers Gailyn's Personal Adventures in the Frozen Tundra Wayan, as you requested I am giving my second installment of my...

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Russia, November 27, 1998

Is There a Central Bank?

If the Russian Central Bank doesn't play fair, who will?? From The Moscow Tribune, November 27, 1998 CENTRAL BANK EXPOSED IN PROFITEERING FROM PRECIOUS METAL SALES By John Helmer A report just completed by Russia's independent state auditor, the Accounting Chamber, accuses the Central Bank of Russia, under its previous...

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Russia, November 26, 1998

Santa Barbara is Real

You think people watch the Brady Bunch over here? Thursday, November 26, 1998 The Moscow Times Santa Barbara "Matter of National Security" By Andrei Zolotov Jr. Times are hard in Russia. People go unpaid for months at a time, pensions are late, and contract killings rock the nation with alarming...

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Russia, November 25, 1998

Nick's Thanksgiving in Russia

Turkey time in the CIS! 25 November, 1998 Thanksgiving By Nick I told you that I would let you know how my Thanksgiving Dinner went. All in all it went well. I became a little mad at one point but that pasted quickly. As you will recall, I invited 10...

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Russia, November 24, 1998

Den' Rozhdeniya = Birthdays

Happy Birthday from Moscow! November 24, 1998, The Moscow Times Etiquette, Eloquence, of Birthday Festivites By Nick Allen Few events in Russia are imbibed with as much energy and good cheer as the round-the-table celebration of a den' rozhdeniya (birthday). And should you he invited to a birthday party, it's...

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Russia, November 23, 1998

Those Crazy Expats

Now is it Turkey, or turkey? Well, do you feel lucky, punk? Working in an international firm dominated by Americans and Brits has its advantages, but sometimes I forget that not all the expats in Moscow are native American (or English) speakers. I subscribe to an American dominated listserve that...

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Russia, November 17, 1998

It's Just a Few Drops of Vodka...

The mind is a horrible thing to pickle with vodka One more for the Road! Its a tickle attack! A painful moment Lets face it, while I sit in Moscow, I have nutting to do, so I do what I want, I party. I now know all the cool yet...

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Russia, November 16, 1998

Elections Are Always Rigged

You think this is a democracy? Forbes November 16, 1998 Who will be the next ruler of Russia? The slick city boss, or the rough-edged populist general? By Paul Klebnikov The parking lot of the fancy tennis club is cluttered with $150,000 Mercedes sedans, each of which costs more than...

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The Blind Leading the Blind

Groping around in the dark, Russian style Nov 16, 1998, Reuters News Wire Kazakh blind lost in post-Soviet darkness By Mike Collett-White TALGAR, Kazakhstan, - Sabyr Sabasov, a 59-year-old Kazakh, flicks open the face of his old watch, gently strokes the hands with his right forefingers, and tells the time....

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Russia, November 11, 1998

Good Russian Grooms

You wanna marry one of the local men? Why? Wednesday, November 11, 1998, The Moscow Times About Face: American Women Pursue Russians By Lynn Visson While marriage agencies, Internet dating services and catalogs stuffed with photos of gorgeous Russian girls eagerly seeking American husbands have attracted a good deal of...

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Russia, November 10, 1998

You Say 'Boris Berezovskiy' Fast

The Power of Boris Berezovskiy Rossiyskaya Gazeta 10 November 1998 Boris Berezovskiy is Not Interested in Institutionalizing Russian Power. A Politoco-Psychological Sketch by Psycholinguistic Methods Article by psycholinguist Irina Volkoa, associate professor at the Russian Federation Government Higher School of Economics: The experience accumulated by the young science of psycholinguistics...

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Russia, November 09, 1998

Too Cold to Care!

You think you know what winter is? Ha! I lived through two Russian ones! Ready to clean the snow! Mmm.. car tasty! Get that snow off the ground! Scraping away at the ice Nice and chilly apartments Gonna need a heater first! I know I should be writing these pages...

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Russia, November 08, 1998

Russian Oil Towns

That's black gold to these folks Financial Times 4 November 1998 SIBERIA: Economy shows its two faces Arkady Ostrovsky visits the Siberian oil towns of Surgut and Nefteyugansk and finds radically different moods Two oil towns face each other across the river Ob, which divides east from west Siberia. They...

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Sneaky Siberian Tigers

Siberian Tigers are out there! Baltimore Sun, November 8, 1998 Siberian tigers are menaced as Russian economy collapses By Will Englund In 1992, when the economy was very bad here, poaching threatened to get out of hand. Reports that the tigers faced extinction led to a grant by the German...

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Russia, November 06, 1998

Which Way is St Peterburg?

No matter what they say, it isn't Moscow St. Petersburg Times, November 6, 1998 Will Liberal St. Petersburg Go With Russia's Flow? By Brian Whitmore St. Petersburg, everyone will tell you,is different. It is more cosmopolitan than Russia's sleepy provinces, yet more sedate than the Babylonian free-for-all of Moscow. Culturally,...

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Russia, November 02, 1998

Where am I again? Oh, yeah...

Another week in the life of a man in Moscow He ain't going nowhere! Sometimes I get confused as to where I am working cuz I've worked at so many desks in my office building! Friday I wrote this in the midst of an office move. We are not moving...

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Russia, October 27, 1998

I Love Me Some Vodka

The elixir of Russia! HELLO RUSSIA Cultural Hints: Russian Vodka Let's talk about vodka, which is an important product in Russian culture. There are 1,8 million officially recognized alcoholics and over 10 million Alkashy (people who drink at first opportunity) in Russia. Teetotaler may look like a black sheep at...

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Russia, October 26, 1998

It's a Gosorg Halloween

If you are around, and you are down, you are at the GOSORG HALLOWEEN BLOWOUT I brought the Baltika 9! Last Saturday, North Americans (Canadians take note), all over the globe celebrated a pagan ritual that has ingrained itself in our modern culture: Halloween Night. In America, the kids (and...

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Russia, October 20, 1998

Hunger Comes to Us All

Every winter everybody is scared of famine! Los Angeles Times October 20, 1998 Hunger in Russia's Heartland Devastating summer drought caused worst grain harvest since 1953. Despite official reassurances, many in impoverished regions fear winter will bring starvation. By John-Thor Dahlburg PALLASOVKA, Russia--In July the wheat crop failed, roasted alive...

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Russia, October 19, 1998

Why Don't They Just Learn English?!

Some dayz, all this 'po russki' really gets to me! One of these is Russia.. See, English is easier! No more blue stripe shirts! Nice hip-check! Oh, every week I try, twice a week even, try to stay awake during my Russian lessons so I can improve my life and...

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Russia, October 12, 1998

Post-Crisis, Life Goes On

The rough part is over, now all we have to do is find Cheese Balls! Dunkin D's Closed! The one and only! Gimme some Chuda Yogurt A life to live! Now I have a problem. I am trying to type this as I eat a Rice Krispies Treat, and I...

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Is Yeltsin 'The Man'?

We are all waiting for The Man Johnson's Russia List, Monday, 12 Oct 1998 Waiting for the Man By Will Harte It is just after eight in the evening and already another bright fall day in Russia has slipped into darkness, lying down to await the lover she knows will...

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Russia, October 10, 1998

Murmansk - Brrrr!

You better bring a fur coat, and not to be stylish! The Independent (UK) 10 October 1998 Heroes Take Their Leave of the Arctic By Rupert Cornwell in Murmansk "Murmansk - Hero City" proclaims the faded concrete hoarding, fully six feet square, as you enter Russia's great northern port. Like...

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Russia, October 06, 1998

Taganka Hides Her Secrects

And you though you'd seen all of the metro! This is a good thing to know about since I live right next to Taganka Square... Moskovskiy Komsomolets 6 October 1998 "Taganka May Collapse Under the Ground: The End of the World in One Square" Yuliya Kalinina reports: We live in...

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These are Communists

What's left of the Russian Communist Party Oh that Red Horde, the Communists! The eternal Russian bogeyman these days is the Communists threat. Well its the bogeyman for the majority of Muscovites, for this city would shrivel up and die if they took over. In the provinces however, the Reds...

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It's a Power Vaccum

There is a serious power vaccum in Russia Johnson Russia List, Tuesday, 06 Oct 1998 The Throne is Empty. Who's Next in Line? By Elena Sokova My daughter goes to a private Moscow school. We chose this school because of the reasonable tuition and the classical Russian educational standards. Another...

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Russia, October 05, 1998

The Commies are Back

Its time to break out the Lenin portraits again! The Reds are on the rise No, it's not the commies We like music, not government We want to party! The Great Russian bogeyman is back, the Communist Party, or so it hopes. The leader of the party, Gennadiy Zyuganov, called...

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Propaganda is Good for You

The place to be on a Saturday night! Johnson's Russia List, October 5, 1998 Russia's Youth Dance Away Crisis By Nick Wadhams Moscow AP At the Propaganda dance club, manager Masha Maslyukova watched calmly as her harried bouncers held back a line of young people pushing and shoving to get...

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You Better Buy Russian!

Why pay more for quality, go local! Johnson's Russia List, 1 October 1998 Russians Forced To Buy Local By Greg Myre Just a few years ago, imports were so scarce that an American visitor with an extra pair of Levi's blue jeans could ignite a bidding war on the streets...

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Russia, September 30, 1998

Sex Ed Soviet Style

No nasty pictures, but a surpising revelation about Russian intamacy Moscow Times, September 30, 1998 AIDS Epidemic Was Russia's Sexual Revolution By Irina Glushchenko The early years of perestroika were set against the backdrop of the West's spiralling AIDS epidemic. This was also when the first telemost, or live U.S.-Soviet...

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Russia, September 28, 1998

Party over, oops outta time!

Would the last expat in moscow please turn out the lights when he leaves. Thanks. Mother Russia on a good day One more for the road Party time in the good life A sad goodbye Her beauty is crisis-proof No, not back to the West! The party is still on!...

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Russia, September 26, 1998

Russian Healthcare in Moscow

When I'm sick, I go to Finland! As I am currently on injured reserve, with a bum knee, I am getting an interesting tour of the healthcare system of Moscow. There are two quasi-independent healthcare systems here, the collection of Western clinics, and the underlying Russian healthcare system. My employer's...

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Russia, September 21, 1998

What Russian Financial Crisis?

Some people think the 'crisis' will pass and the rainbow will shine again The hard way The harder way The hardest way A smart shopper Here is the Russian parliamentarians' comments on the current economic and political crisis in Russia. This article is taken from 9th issue of the unofficial...

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YE Prices in Russia

And you though the ruble devaluation would make everything cheap! Johnson's Russia List, 21 Sep 1998 The Chocolate Standard By Joseph McCormick Every week or so for the past year I've been buying groceries at Sedmoi Kontinent, a chain of "gastronomy" that have reworked themselves into something resembling bona fide...

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Russia, September 20, 1998